Thursday, July 13, 2006

 

Why I love Paraguay...

...and one reason I don't

The reason most people miss out Paraguay on their trips around South America is that, unlike it's neighbours, it doesn't have one stand-out "must see" attraction, like an Iguazu falls, chunk of Panatal or gigantic salt flat. But I love the place for it relaxed pace, genuinely lovely people, and it's simply very beautiful. So I was glad to be back in the country, this time coming in from the north to Conception, then travelling the Chaco route to Asuncion.

There are a load of reasons why I love Paraguay but here are a few random ones...

Being a foreigner is easy
...and good entertainment value for the locals. As well as being a cheap country to visit, you're made to feel welcome. I was greeted constantly by people in the street, was as much a point of interest in some places as the place was to me, and often consulted on who I thought would win the World Cup (me???). The Paraguayans are great hand-shakers and everyone from the man in the tourist office, to the guy waiting for a bus with me had a go. I only went to send a parcel home, but the (3) people in charge of special edition stamps diverted Norwegian Chris and me into a side-office first just to see their latest first day covers...they all found it hillarious that I wanted the Paraguayan World Cup Team issue (Alex, their on a postcard to you and the boys as I type).

Great cows
...like parts of Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia, Paraguayan cows are an ancient, skinny, Indian breed imported because their suitability to the conditions. They´re strangely beautiful with long horns and a hump, but I like the way the Paraguan army lets them graze on the parade ground.

And horses too... There are horses everywhere other than in the heart of Asuncion, and the horse and cart is still a popular means of transport. I just liked turning a corner and finding a horse parked in front of a house.

Asuncion...
I love this city. It's a complete mix of old and modern, poor and rich. It's beautiful has great restaurants with great food. And this visit I made it to the Mercardo 4, street after street of covered market selling anything from cow guts to Hello Kitty radios.

They have a navy...
Which on the surface may seem a bit odd for a land locked country, but I suspect it spends it's time patrolling the Rio Paraguay for contraband from Bolivia rather than defending it's borders.

The people...
...just lovely

...and the one thing that isn't so wonderful...
is the everpresent heavily armed police. Aparently there is a high proportion of private gun ownership amoung Paraguayans but it just doesn't seem that unsafe a country, and I suspect that the powers that be just like to make sure the people know who has the biggest guns. In Asuncion there was a demostration of about 15 people accompanied by an armoured police van complete with water canon...need I say more?


Twenty days and five countries...
Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argenina (including an unscheduled stop in Jujuy) and now back to Chile... but tomorrow it's back to Bolivia...more soon.


Overheard on bus...
"Sorry, I bashed you in the Andesmar toilet"
Andesmar are a pan-Argentine bus company, all I wondered was whether to be "bashed in the Andesmar toilet" was code for something..?
Current SP´s:
To be kicked in the bollox - 5:1
An attempt to join "the meter high club" - evens

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