Monday, November 27, 2006
Chilean Patagonia
Being Prepared
When I was about 9 or 10 years old I turned up at the church hall one evening to be told my presence was no longer required at Cub Scouts. The official reason was that I had failed to show up for the previous 8 weeks and therefore hadn't obtained my Bronze Award - tie a reef knot, make a cup of tea that sort of stuff... However in reality I actually think it was more to do with the reason that I had absented myself for those 8 weeks: that is, I had encourage the other members of my 6 (although there were only 4 of us) plus a few others to abscond from a ramble across Hampstead Heath... Anyway, scouting, trekking and camping have hardly been something I've been particularly interested in since. However for some reason I decided to make a 5 day trek through chilly Chilean Torres Del Paine National Park.
You will not be surprised that I was fully prepared for this trek through the wintry wilderness. My list of equipment included the following:
- One whistle, donated by Norwegian Chris, for drawing attention to myself in case of emergency. However it doesn't have a pea and sounded more like an asthmatic mouse than a whistle.
- One compass, a present from Karen and Alex, unfortunately it got cracked at some point in Colombia, and therefore had the unique feature of placing North wherever you think it might be really.
- One Swiss Army Knife, slightly inhibited by a superglue accident preventing full (well, any) blade usage...but you ought to have one, right?
- One length of parachute chord, donated by Matt Belcher, that has proved its usefulness time and again. However with a Swiss Army Knife rendered useless by the superglue accident, it was of fixed length. My advice, don't ever bother trying to gnaw through parachute chord.
- One pair of glasses, although they were blown off my face (did I mention it was a bit windy there) on my second to last day, never to be found again.
- One sleeping bag, of which I was convinced was suitable for temperatures as low as minus 6 degrees, until I read the bit that said "From + 7 to - 6 : RISK"
- One tent, rented, the down side of the luxurious space of a two man tent with just one of you in it is that the lack of second body actually makes the whole thing colder...
- 4 days worth of packet soup, dried noodles, dried sauces, dried potatoes, dried bloody everything... it was actually this aspect, the relentless aspartame and mono-sodium glutamate gruel that was the only real down side of the trip.
- And of course, one roll gaffer tape...once again a saviour. Every home should have it!
Despite having a bit of stinking cold all the way round, the whole thing was fantastic. Great weather and good company (including Kylie who made friends with all the park rangers, so got us cooking privileges - and therefore warmth - in their shacks where there was no kind of refugio) and utterly stunning scenes.
Generally the whole thing is one of those spectacular sights that defy description. All I know is I've earned my trekking badge so that'll be that for a while.
If you are heading for this part of the world, even if you don't stay at either of the Erratic Rock Hostels, in Puerto Nateles, go to their briefings (3pm every day), it's open to anyone who shows up. Shed loads of really useful info all worth taking note of, from people who, despite having hostel, hire and guide services, don't get pushy with them at all. They simply seem genuinely interested in helping budget travellers get the most of a visit to Torres Del Paine. Just be aware, if you get Bill started on how the park should attract the "right" kind of visitor you'll be there for hours...
Fjords and Ice Bergs
From Puerto Natales Mike, my trek companion, and I headed up north on the Navimag ferry, passing more incredible landscapes. And drinking quite a bit, especially at the last night's Bingo Fiesta!!! This is Mike helping some college girls with their homework. Are you surprised he couldn't find his glasses in the morning?
When I got back to Puerto Montt I was able to capture on film something I spotted last time I was here, and as a few people I have told thought it was just talking rubbish as usual, here is the proof: Some enterprising young fella attempts to beat the "Nuts-4-Nuts" company, and go one better.
Collective noun of the month:
A puddle of Old Aged Pensioners
Now I'm back in the Chilean Lake District and seriously considering doing nothing for the next few weeks until I fly home...
